The Hill Cafe – A Cool Place in A Cool Neighborhood

I’ve been spending Tuesday evenings in Church Hill.  That’s it.  I’ve confessed.  The neighborhood is my favorite – I rue the day I bought a house in the West End – and in the short time I lived in Church Hill (2001-ish?) I grew to love, love, love The Hill Cafe.  So, with my Tuesday night class getting relocated to Libby Terrace, I thought this would be a great opportunity for me to reconnect with the seared ahi tuna appetizer.  And I was right.

In the name of “research” I have returned to The Hill Cafe every week in order to offer you, Gentle Readers, a very good idea of what they have to offer in terms of food, ambiance, and libation.  I’ll get to the food in a moment.  As for ambiance, it’s a neighborhood restaurant/bar in a great historic neighborhood.  People are walking their dogs outside.  The houses are cool.  The people who work there are calm, and aloof, but still friendly.  At least the people who work on Tuesdays are.  I’ve been sitting at the bar, and the Tuesday bartender (hi Bobby!) is courteous and prompt.  That’s a big deal when you’re trying to have some “me time” and then rush to class.

The Hill Cafe is part of the Richmond Restaurant Group.  Other members of the group are Water Grill, Delux, Europa, and The Hard Shell.  I’ve been to Europa and The Hard Shell and have no complaints whatsoever on the food or the service.  Of course, it might take another visit to be able to really establish an opinion….

Anywhoo.  The Hill Cafe.  I had heard that the fried chicken was the best in town (even better than Lee’s) so of course I got that one night.  I’m sad to report that I wasn’t able to photograph it, because I was far too hungry and it was far too delicious.  I don’t know how they get white meat, skinless chicken to stay that juicy, but…whoa.  It’s juicy and seasoned just right and I could probably eat about four servings of it at one sitting, though you might find me crying in shame later.

One night I got the filet mignon.  It came with some yummy taters, a green vegetable, and these crispy onion rings.  Again, I dug in before I remembered to take a photo.  I guess that’s why we have a proper Richmond food site – I am too eager of an eater.  I’m sure David Mattera (blog and foodmaster extraordinaire) remembers to photograph food before he starts eating it.

Other favorites (according to the people hanging out inside and people I randomly quizzed on my way to and from the ladies room) are the shoestring french fries (crispy and delicious), the BBQ sandwich, the meatloaf (fried with seasoning), and pretty much anything on the Sunday brunch menu.  Get thee to The Hill Cafe, and make sure you go hungry.

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Belle Isle – The Peaceful Center of Richmond

It isn’t often that once can find the peace and quiet of the outdoors in the middle of a bustling city.  Like so many other wonders that can be found within the boundaries of the City of Richmond, Belle Isle provides a welcome change of pace from what one might expect to be nestled in the center of an ever-growing metropolis.  This island, located in the middle of the James River in the heart of the city, offers its own surprises and opportunities for enjoyment and discovery.

Like the surrounding city, Belle Isle finds its roots steeped in Civil War history.  The island served as the site of a prison camp for Union soldiers during the war, many of which were capture soldiers from the 2^nd Tennessee Infantry, taken during the Battle of Rogersville in November of 1863. The Battle of Walkerton (which took place March 2, 1864) proved to be a failed attempt to rescue the starving men. Even today, remains of the buildings used in the prison camp can be found scattered across the island.  Ruins of an armory and an iron factory still stand against the elements as a testament to the harsh history of the place.

The tragic history seems a distant memory, however, when one traverses the paths and trails of the island.  Modern amenities such as picnic shelters, rest areas, learning centers and even a tricky rope bridge provide visitors with the opportunity to enjoy the surrounding nature comfortably and safely. So when one sits at the top of the quiet island, overlooking the James River or Hollywood Cemetery, it is easy to forget that over the other shoulder sits an entire city full of people.  Until they trip over you with their dogs and their beer coolers, that is…

photos borrowed from Watermarked Photography’s Flickr Page

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Historic Jackson Ward – “The Harlem Of The South”

Historic Jackson Ward is one of Richmond, Virginia’s oldest and well-preserved neighborhoods.  Located east of Belvidere, west of Shockoe Bottom, and north of Broad, Jackson Ward is home to some of Richmond’s most beautiful historic buildings, in addition to being the historical center of African-American culture during the early 1900’s.

While Jackson Ward was settled by European immigrants, the neighborhood has been a predominantly black neighborhood, and home to many influential figures over the years.  Maggie Walker, the first African-American woman to run a bank, lived there.  Giles Jackson, the first African-American to practice law before the Supreme Court of Virginia, lived and practiced there.  We get this information, and much more, from a book found in the Virginia Commonwealth University James Branch Cabell Library’s Special Collections titled Jackson Ward Historic District.  While the book focuses mainly on the architecture and political significance of the neighborhood, many other sources refer to Jackson Ward’s rich cultural and artistic heritage – the things that brought the neighborhood to be called “The Harlem of the South.”

The Dementi family made a name for themselves as photographers of the wonders and people of Richmond.  Wayne Dementi and a fellow named Brooks Smith put a book together called Facts and Legends of The Hills of Richmond, which is, in essence, a love story devoted to Richmond.  In it, the authors discuss Jackson Ward, and confirm what many different online sources tell us – that Jackson Ward was THE place to go for young, hip black men and women in the 1920’s.  Just as Harlem was the center for black art and music in 1920’s New York, Jackson Ward was the same for Virginia.

While Harlem had The Cotton Club, The Stork Club, and the Silver Slipper; Richmond had Happy Land, Top Hat, and Shorties.  Jackson Ward saw many famous acts perform at these clubs.  Cab Calloway performed in town.  So did Lena Horne, Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald, and Bill “Bojangles” Robinson, among many others.  Robinson was actually a Richmond native who got his start dancing local bars in Jackson Ward and other neighborhoods in Richmond.  He became famous all over the United States, appearing in plays and films.

Other Richmond natives that contributed to the cultural boom of the 1920’s were the members of Roy Johnson’s Happy Pals.  A swing orchestra, they were 10 Richmond natives – Jackson Ward natives, in fact, who beat out Duke Ellington’s orchestra in a 1929 New York band contest.  You can hear their music on Jazz compilations or you can buy their songs on Amazon.com.

Today Jackson Ward is home to wonderful restaurants, grassroots art galleries, and many artists and homeowners who are dedicated to revitalizing one of Richmond’s finest neighborhoods.  One woman, Jenni Mennella, wrote about a tour she took of Richmond in 2002 – the point of which was to visit some sites in Richmond that are key to understanding Virginia’s African-American culture.  In addition to seeing many of the historical sites, she also ate at Croaker’s (one of Jackson Ward’s fine eateries) on 2^nd and Leigh, and heard Jackson’s Ward’s own Soul Fantastic perform.

While Soul Fantastic might not be around anymore, you can still eat at Croaker’s, and you can check out events and exhibits at Jackson Ward’s own Gallery 5, 1708 Gallery, Quirk Gallery, and more.  Make sure to visit the Black History Museum and Cultural Center of Virginia.  Other restaurants to visit are Comfort, Tarrant’s Café, and Nick’s Market.  Jackson Ward is not only full of a rich history and bearer of an even richer legacy, but it also a hub of cultural activity and great entertainment in Richmond, Virginia.

Article by EM Downing Johnson

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